Linksprite DIY CNC info/stats/mods

Just to keep track of what I’ve done, current settings, mods, and measurements.

Controller: (CNCjs)

Chuck upgrade:

Limit switches:
it appears that bolting the limit switches directly onto the z carriage is causing them to trigger due to vibration.. need to figure out a dampening option, or make grbl ignore the jitters somehow. For now, I am unplugging them after homing.

Upgrade to grbl 1.1 steps:

following the steps outlined here…/Compiling-Grbl

ArduinoIDE settings were as follows:
board: Arduino duemilanove or diecimilia
Processor: ATmega328
port: /dev/cu.wchusbserial1410

Tslot stats:

After installing the upgraded chuck I found myself limited to 26mm of z axis, so I replaced the vertical posts with taller ones getting me closer to 40mm of z
6mm depth
6.1mm or .2 opening IW
11mm inner race
2.5ish mm race width

result of $$ post upgrades:

RESP: $0=10
RESP: $1=25
RESP: $2=0
RESP: $3=4
RESP: $4=0
RESP: $5=0
RESP: $6=0
RESP: $10=0
RESP: $11=0.010
RESP: $12=0.002
RESP: $13=0
RESP: $20=1
RESP: $21=1
RESP: $22=1
RESP: $23=0
RESP: $24=25.000
RESP: $25=500.000
RESP: $26=250
RESP: $27=1.000
RESP: $30=3500
RESP: $31=70
RESP: $32=0
RESP: $100=800.000
RESP: $101=800.000
RESP: $102=800.000
RESP: $110=1200.000
RESP: $111=1200.000
RESP: $112=500.000
RESP: $120=10.000
RESP: $121=10.000
RESP: $122=10.000
RESP: $130=130.000
RESP: $131=80.000
RESP: $132=38.494

LINKS: – Linksprite CNC forum


Ring flood light cam to dumb motion sensor

The worst ideas come to us when drinking too much, and having access to purchasing power when drinking is probably never a great idea.. but alas, here I am.

Links, always forget the links. Link to camera

Apparently drunk me decided that I wanted to follow through on a project that I was thinking about doing for some time. Originally utilizing the ring doorbell, but then once the flood light camera came out switching gears. The plan was to use the ring sensor to trip regular lights in the same way as an infrared motion sensor does. that way I get to keep the lights I have on my garage, and still monitor the driveway for the random cat or raccoon.. er robber attempting to assault my kingdom!

How hard could it be, drunk me seemed to say as i looked at the unopened box on my dining room table. So i decided to dive in.

First up, the disassembly. Sober me, thinking sure, I can take a crack at this, popped open the box, and promptly started tearing the thing down.

The LED lamp arms came off easily enough








Then I started poking around inside. and trouble began.

My first thought.. nay, hope was that the white box there was a big beefy relay.. no, that was not to be the case. that there is the LED driver for the lamps. which means that it’s kicking a large voltage off to the arms, it also means a regular LED light bulb, which also has an LED controller isn’t going to work. so, back to the drawing board.. sort of. I’m also thinking maybe I just go full on “there i fixed it” by tieing off the LED driver wires, and sharing power across the existing motion sensor and the camera.

Will update as I dig deeper.

update: the “there i fixed it” method worked, in an unexpected way. You see, the LED driver takes standard mains voltage. So i says to myself, there has to be a way to trigger this thing that I am missing. Turns out I was right. The camera was set to close the circuit when the lights were requested to be on.. So i removed the driver and wired internally

red – light fixture black
white – all whites bundled
black – line

Suddenly, everything was working.. and I only once climbed up the ladder without double checking the breaker(realized before touching anything thankfully)! I’d call that a win.

intel euclid – secure that bugger

This thing is a cool little computer, but it IS a computer, and we don’t want the possibilities of a zombie on our network, OR especially in our robot now do we? Link to wtf I’m talking about here.

Sadly I don’t see any way YET to lock down the default development web page, but will probably stumble my way into something and post on that. The web server appears to be a series of python scripts, so if I can find the config, change ports, and hide it behind a login screen on lighttpd or something I’ll document that out as well.

Step 1, initial setup
first things first, follow the instructions for the basic setup. as of 06/09/2017 running the ubuntu software updater does not appear to break anything (that i’ve seen so far)

step 2, change your passwords.
login via VNC with the default password (euclid) and change the default user’s password via the settings panel
then open a terminal and type the following to change the default VNC password

sudo x11vnc -storepasswd /etc/x11vnc.pass
you will be prompted as below
Enter VNC passwd: [enter new password]
Verify password: [enter the new password again]
Write password to /home/ubuntu/.vnc/passwd? [y]/n y
Password written to : /home/ubuntu/.vnc/passwd

step 3, setup ssh

sudo apt install openssh-server -y

at this point the ssh server should be running and you should be able to login with the euclid user and password

step 4, configure ssh to use public key encryption (semi optional)
I recommend using public key encryption to make the connections, and from the host machine executing the following command will copy your private key over. it MAY complain about the file not existing, and if that happens, just create a blank one at ~/.ssh/ (you may need to create the directory as well)

cat ~/.ssh/ | ssh user@hostname ‘cat >> .ssh/authorized_keys’

after that, make sure to turn off interactive login by adding/changing the following in the /etc/ssh/sshd_config file

# Authentication:
LoginGraceTime 120
PermitRootLogin prohibit-password
StrictModes yes
PasswordAuthentication no
ChallengeResponseAuthentication no

Step 5, restart everything
Either reboot the whole thing, or sudo service <ssh and x11vnc> restart

there ya are, it’s not perfect, but at least it’s not default!


ROS and cura

apparently the two can’t easily live happily together. while running through the initial tutorials to refresh my headspace I ran into a segmentation fault at the step of running

rosrun rqt_graph rqt graph

this post explains what’s going on

but i am going to need to have cura working as well.. so will have to revisit

control panel with custom ui

looking to make a control panel with a ui for scheduling and general information. May also end up being the UI for my smart mirror?
in the researching phase but hardware wise I have a 7″ raspi touchscreen and a raspi model b

raspbian – base OS
enlightenment – ui layer
?? – calendar
?? – news
?? – other

hardware features i want

touchscreen – raspi 7″
motion sense – ??
nfc – ??
intercom – ??


octopi, and printerbot

this shouldn’t be too involved right?
Download octopi 
use the standard

sudo dd if=2015-05-05-octopi-wheezy-0.12.0.img of=/dev/disk2 bs=1m

plug everything in


instructions you ask.. heh, we’ll see how the above goes.

edit 1:
So it was basically that easy, So far.. had to play with the wifi configs to get that working (will really vary by adapter, but my changes are below)

#auto wlan0
#allow-hotplug wlan0
iface wlan0 inet manual
wpa-roam /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
iface default inet manual



I got some weirdness at first because both my SSID and key have spaces in them.. well, I THOUGHT that was the problem.. then I copy pasta’d them both again and found out that in fact I was the problem..
On to the printer, which is not currently playing nice.

edit2: have you turned it off and on again? yeah.. that made the printer work..


the latest update to octopi(octoprint) seems to have decided to rename the usb port. Probably an affect of not disconnecting before pressing UPDATE ME NAOW! easy enough fix though, unplug power from the printrbot plug back in, and restart octoprint (Not the pi, just the octoprint service) bing bang, all set and fixed

Printrbot Play

Printrbot store link
Ah, 3d printers.. the greatest of inventions. Heralding in a golden age of instant home replication of anything your heart desires*.
*anything your heart desires offer only available after you personally create that thing after learning to use a decent CAD package, then spend hours if not days fiddling with the settings of your printer to get them 100% perfect for that one time print, which throws it out of alignment again.

But seriously, I love these finicky, argumentative, beasts called 3d printers.

So back to the printrbot play. Let me get straight to it. If you want to read after this, that’s your problem. This list will probably change over time as i’m about an hour into calibrating and fiddling stage.

made of metal (not wood) so sturdy
overall mechanism fairly simple, I could see myself wanting to repair this

Drooling problem – it seems each calibration test requires that I wait for this to finish
head doesn’t travel to “Z home” when a print is cancelled (I’m sure I can fix that somewhere)
instructions are a bit.. longish (hey man, I’m just saying)

Really though this guy comes with the usual quirks you get with a 3d printer so far.. calibrate, fiddle, print, repeat.
I really like the story of the printrbot company and actually bought and assembled one of the “og” wooden printrbot simpl’s. I’ve also horsed around with a couple of makerbot’s offerings. That’s basically my experience there.

update: 3 hours in and still “calibrating” seems I just can’t get adhesion and will probably be looking for some way to clear the “drool” before I am printing anything. 3 hours isn’t terrible at this stage in the printing game though.

edit: Just can’t get adhesion, seems the nozzle is hanging out just slightly high enough to not allow the plastic to mash properly against the bed. Must be a calibration thing, but can’t seem to make M212 do anything different..

edit: So after much futsing with software, I decided to move onto hardware for my calibration. and there-in lies the fix.

wp-1457461685348.jpg This little guy right here
So that is the “z probe” which also seems to act as a “z stop”.  Printrbot provides a handy sheet of plastic for calibrating this little guy, but it seems like the actual position that worked (for me) was to discard it completely and make small adjustments, then try pressing “home” in the cura software until it seemed right. On the plus side it’s threaded, so I could turn it to make the finer side of the adjustments and just tighten down when I got there. I’m assuming that this will be the first thing to go out of alignment, meaning that this is where I’ll start for any future tuning.

wp-1457461653070.jpgSweet success!